Catedral del Apóstol

To end the day, we walked through the Catedral del Apóstol, which has an impressive baroque façade facing the Praza do Obradoiro. When the pilgrims finish their journey, they arrive to take in the lavish architecture of the structure.

The majority of the cathedral was built between 1075 and 1211, in Romanesque style, and then the baroque elements were added later. According to history, Maestro Mateo was the master architect and sculptor in the cathedral-building initiative organized by Fernando II of León during the late 12^th century.

Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea

We then stopped off at the Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea to check out the current exhibition of modern art.

Museo do Pobo Galego

Next, we went to the Museo do Pobo Galego, a museum with exhibits on Galician life and customs, from its strong fishing industry to its Celtic arts.

Museo das Peregrinacións

The next day, we first went to the Museo das Peregrinacións, a museum devoted to the Camino de Santiago tradition that has existed over the centuries. The Camino stretches from southern France, across the northern part of Spain, until you reach Santiago de Compostela. It is an 800 km track, but you can tell that many people make the trip each year, denoted by the scallop shell that pilgrims have attached to their bags.

Legend has it that the corpse of Santiago Apóstol (St. James) was brought to Santiago de Compostela in a boat made of stone from the Holy Land by two disciples around AD 44. Later, in 813, the grave of St. James was rediscovered by a religious hermit following a star, hence the name “Compostela,” from the Latin campus stellae, meaning, “field of the star.” His reported grave became a symbol of Christian Spain, so king Alfonso II constructed a church above the holy remains. To make a long story short, pilgrims began flocking to the site, and so the tradition was started.

Semana Santa Procession!

After we had filled our bellies, we began to walk around to check out the scene, when what to our wondering eyes should appear, but alas, a processional as part of the city’s Holy Week celebration.

This was the representation of the Virgin Mary that we saw as it was leaving Santiago de Compostela's Cathedral. It was truly impressive to see the costaleros, the people who carry the weight of the figure through the streets, manage such a large mass while feeling their way along the steep steps heading away from the cathedral's main entrance.

Seafood Galore!

With so many tantalizing little tidbits to tempt us at every turn, it was difficult to decide where to eat that first night. One thing for sure: we knew that we had to try the local seafood!

The region’s signature dish is pulpo a la gallega, which are tender pieces of octopus prepared in olive oil and paprika.

There are also a number of different shellfish that inhabit Galician waters, such as vieiras, a type of scallop that is generally served in its shell.

Galician Cuisine

As we were walking along Rúa da Raíña, the street where our hostel was located, one of the first things that we noticed was all of the restaurants with their live sea fare on display. Galicia’s signature dishes often entail seafood, which is always abundant and fresh.

Off to tierras gallegas!

The Friday before Holy Week, Brian and I headed to the airport to fly to Galicia, the part of Spain located directly north of Portugal. Of course, the downfall to cheap flights is often that you have to be at the airport at the crack of dawn!

Elecciones España 2008

On March 9^th, the Spanish headed to the poles to vote on their next president. After months of campaigning, Zapatero of the PSOE, the Partido Socialista Obrero Español (Spanish Socialist Worker’s Party) was victorious.

Plaza de España

Directly across the street from the Parque María Luisa is the Plaza de España, a pretty relaxing spot with fountains and mini canals. Here are some views of it from the very outskirts of the park.

Parque María Luisa

After we had settled in from our trip to Salamanca, Brian and I decided to take the time to walk through the Parque María Luisa, the park located in downtown Sevilla. An escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, it's full of flowers, fountains, lawns, and 2500 magnificent trees.

Palacio de los Duques de San Carlos

Directly facing the Iglesia de San Martín is the Palacio de los Duques de San Carlos, which dates to the 16^th century. On the roof, there are chimneys which are intended to represent in miniature the pyramids and monuments of the subjugated Aztecs, Incas, and other indigenous cultures.

Iglesia de San Martín

Located in the northeast corner of the Plaza Mayor is the predominantly 16^th-century Iglesia de San Martín, which is one of the few churches in Trujillo that still serves as a place of worship.

Palacio Juan Pizarro de Orellano

Just above the Palacio de la Conquista is the Palacio Juan Pizarro de Orellano, which was converted into a Renaissance mansion by one of the Pizarro cousins who participated in the Conquest and survived to reap the benefits back at home. Nowadays, the building serves as a school, and its patio is decorated with the coats of arms of the two most prominent local families: the Pizarros and the Orellanas. Francisco Orellana, also from Trujillo, was the first European to explore the Amazon River in present-day South America.

Homenaje a Pizarro

The statue is not the only homage to Pizarro in the Plaza Mayor. On the plaza’s south side on the corner of the Palacio de la Conquista, there are various carved images of Pizarro and his lover Inés Yupanqui, who was the sister of the Inca emperor Atahualpa.

Higher up on the building, there is a relief-carving of the Pizarro family shield, which is two bears and a pine tree), Pizarro’s ships, and a group of Indian chiefs.

Conquistadors Galore

Often referred to as the “Cradle of the Conquistadors,” the town only came to its own with the conquest of the Americas. In fact, the town made its mark on history by sending over 600 explorers to the New World. One of the most famous figures of the Conquest of Perú, Francisco Pizarro, was from Trujillo, and the town has commemorated his heritage by placing a large equestrian statue of the conquistador in Plaza Mayor.

Sculpted by American Charles Rumsey, legend has it that it was originally intended to be a representation of Hernán Cortés to present to Mexico. Given that Mexico does not take a particularly favorable view of Cortés, the country declined it. As a result, it was given to Trujillo as Pizarro instead.

Trujillo

The next stop on our agenda was Trujillo, an enchanting “Old World” town located in Extremadura. Here is a picture of all of us (minus Jonathan, who was graciously taking the picture) on a bench in the Plaza Mayor.

Mirador

The miradores (overlooks) are one of my favorite things to stumble upon when we travel. They are never a disappointment, and the sunset over the horizon was icing on the cake!

Ayuntamiento

The town hall was absolutely precious, overlooking the Plaza Mayor. We certainly couldn’t complain about the view we enjoyed while sipping our coffee!

Choir Stalls

Once inside the cathedral, of particular interest were the intricately carved oak choir stalls...

Catedral

The town’s primary attraction is undoubtedly its cathedral. It was originally Romanesque dating to 1165, but in the 16^th century it was modified in the Gothic style of the time.

Ciudad Rodrigo

Located only 27 km from the Portuguese border, Ciudad Rodrigo is far from the well-travelled tourist routes. The town originally served as a Roman outpost, but it was named after Conde Rodrigo González Girón, the count who revived the area in 1100 after numerous Moorish invasions. Fortified during border wars between Spain and Portugal, the city soon grew to be an outpost for the Spanish military. The city walls, which are 2.2 km long, attest to this heritage.

Iglesia

Before leaving La Alberca, we took a moment to visit the village’s church, which was absolutely beautiful due to its small town charm.

Buen provecho!

Given that there were so many delicious restaurants nearby, we decided that it was a perfect opportunity to stop and get a bite to eat.

Plaza Mayor

On warm, sunny days locals flock to the main plaza of the town, where cozy bars and restaurants abound. As they say, when in Rome, do as the Romans!

Gastronomical Delight

One of the highlights of La Alberca is the abundance of vendors selling local products such as jamón (ham), turrón (nougat), castañas (chestnuts), and miel (honey).

La Alberca

The next day, we drove to La Alberca, a quaint little town located in the Sierra de Francia. The most beautiful narrow alleys and ramshackle houses built of stone, wooden beams, and plaster are scattered throughout the village.

Lazarillo de Tormes

Named after the river that runs through the city, the Río Tormes, Lazarillo de Tormes is the ancestor of little scoundrels worldwide. He was born to lowly beginnings within the walls of Salamanca, and his trials and tribulations were documented in 1554 by an anonymous author in a novel entitled Lazarillo de Tormes. The story of his life is an account of his servitude to a blind man, a priest, and a nobleman, among others. Today, people are reminded of Lazarillos’s adventures by the bronze statue that stands at the end of the Puente Romano.

Toro Ibérico

At first glance, we had absolutely no idea what this statue could possibly represent. After further investigation, however, we realized that it is the headless granite bull known as the "Toro Ibérico" that guards part of the bridge. Despite the fact that it dates to pre-Roman times, the bull became famous during the 16th century because of its role in Lazarillo de Tormes, the epitome of the Spanish picaresque novel and predecessor of Don Quixote. In one particular scene in the novel, Lazarillo's head is slammed into the bull's ear just after he cheats his blind employer.

Puente Romano

At the southern edge of the city is the 200-year-old Roman bridge, connecting the banks of the Río Tormes. Historically, it formed part of the Camino de la Plata (Silver Way), a Roman trade route stretching from Mérida in Extremadura to Astorga. This was the path that most Andalusian and Castilian Christians took to complete their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

Casa de las Conchas

Directly across the street from the Real Clerecía de San Marcos, a colossal baroque church, is the Casa de las Conchas. One of the city’s most charming buildings, it was named after the scallop shells hanging onto its façade. The owner of the building, Dr. Rodrigo Maldonado de Talavera, was a doctor at the court of Isabel and a member of the Order of Santiago, whose symbol is the shell. Legend has it that the Jesuits bought and leveled every house in the region to build their college, except the Casa de las Conchas, even though they offered to pay a gold coin for each shell.